15 Steps to Gardening Success in South Africa: How to Grow and Care for Your Plants and Succulents
By Jethro Burnett Thorburn (founder of Plant Shop Africa)
You don’t need to know all the information in this guide before you start growing plants.
Just start with something that you’re keen to try and do it in whichever way is possible for you in your own unique context.
Experiment, have fun, and don’t be afraid to make mistakes. Nature is a brilliant teacher and you will learn as you go along!
“The best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second best time is now.”
– Chinese Proverb
Please Note - My advice on how to get the most out of this guide:
To focus on a specific topic, simply click the different headings in the Table of Contents (below) to navigate around this guide.
I also recommend bookmarking the link to this guide now on your phone or computer so that you can conveniently access it again in the future. Just search for “Plant Shop Africa” in your bookmarks to find it.
Tip 1 - Understanding the unique environment in which you are growing plants - Learning about the native plants, soil, topography, land orientation, climate, and social context
The following formula encapsulates what we are trying to accomplish in this step:
Using our senses to observe + doing research (general as well as specific to our context) + thinking about things and using our imagination = a well-developed understanding of what is possible in our unique environment as well as an ability to weigh up different options and decide which approaches will give us the best chances of achieving good results on future projects with the least amount of effort and potential problems
So what exactly are we doing?
Senses:
We as humans are gifted with a range of very useful senses that enable us to be aware of the plants we are growing and how they are interacting with their surrounding environment:
- Sight
- Hearing
- Smell
- Touch
- Taste
The things we see, hear, smell, feel, and taste in our gardens are all valuable pieces of data; so staying aware and curious when we are working with plants is very much worth it.
When we encounter something new it often raises many questions in our minds.
For example, if we observe a problem with the growth of one of our favourite plants, our natural instinct is to find out more about the problem so that we can solve it. A thought that may spontaneously come to mind could be, “Which type of insects left those bite marks on its leaves?”.
Since we are interested in the well-fair of our plants we will most often feel a strong urge to find an answer to our question; which leads us to our next point.
Research
We may not be able to smell as accurately as a dog, or see as clearly as a hawk, however, each of us is blessed with a powerful mind and an innate human intuition.
By deepening and broadening our knowledge we can employ well-informed actions in the future.
When we have a thought about something we can decide to investigate it immediately in the moment or we can try to remember to return to the topic at a more convenient time (using a notepad or note app on your phone can help with this).
Nevertheless, when the right time comes, there are many effective ways of conducting research:
We can improve our knowledge simply by observing the new data that we are continually collecting and look for patterns or connections to other incomplete pieces of information that come to mind.
Although nature has a profound way of showing us patterns until we get the message it is trying to send.
When we see things for example, they will spontaneously give rise to questions in our minds. For example, we may catch sight of a honeybee drinking nectar from a Bulbine frutescens plant We are also living in a time in which we have access to information on almost any topic we can think of, if we are willing to look for it.
Nowadays, we can use our phones or computers to type up a quick Google search, and there is almost always at least 1 source of information on the relevant topic.
However, we can also conduct research using the age-old tried-and-tested methods, such as reading books and magazines as well as talking to other people who have experience or an interest in the field.
has never been so freely available.can play with the data and combine different information to form new ideas or imagine new possibilities or projects.
Thinking
I am not suggesting we get stressed and obsessed with collecting data. It should not feel like hard work. I sometimes remind myself that there is still a child within me who is simply keen on exploring. It is not a chore or task that must be completed within a specific time frame and done in a specific way, this is a process whereby we use our freedom to move, look, and wander, and in so doing our minds gradually develop a good picture of how everything is working (and not working so well).
Over time we will naturally amass an extensive amount of plant-related knowledge, which we can store in our brains and in other spend extensive amounts of time contemplating the information in our memories and in our research documents
Furthermore, we feel most alive and well when we are making good use of our
do possess incredibly powerful minds.
We can use this gift of consciousness to contemplate and interpret the data that we collect using these senses.
This ability to learn and play with the information at our disposal gives us the capacity to be incredibly creative and to find innovative solutions that can bring us tremendous abundance.
So it is only fit and natural that we spend a lot of our time experimenting in our environment, thinking about the different plant options, and hypothesising about different possible solutions for projects or problems.
Through our experiences in our own environment, and by learning about similar spaces that other people are working in; we eventually accumulate an extensive amount of valuable plant-related knowledge.
This knowledge is what enables us to work smart with plants; and if we do so successfully, we will be able to reap greater rewards with less effort and complications.
Since we are interested in plants, this won’t need to be a massive effort or “faked”, it will happen naturally over time as we spend time working and relaxing in the environment.
It is a gradual process that is quite profound, as the space feels more familiar over time, and we learn how to work with it. The relationship is actually quite special and makes us feel as if we are creating our own special little place on Earth while simultaneously maintaining a good grasp on how the environment functions and how we as gardeners or caretakers can play a role in maximising the health and productivity of the ecosystem..
Working smart with plants enables us to reap the most rewards with the least amount of resources and effort.
“Work hard,
and you will earn good rewards.
Work smart,
and you will earn great rewards.
Work hard and work smart,
and you will earn extraordinary rewards.”
― Matshona Dhliwayo
Over the years I have dedicated thousands of hours to working in our garden. While doing so I have spent a considerable amount of time observing, thinking, and learning. I’ve also spent thousands of hours doing online research and compiling information.
We can use our accumulated knowledge to make good decisions in relation to our current and future plant projects.
For example, our knowledge can help us with choosing the plants and landscaping designs that will best enable us to achieve our objectives (while simultaneously taking into consideration the limitations and constraints of the environment in which we are working).
Why we do this?
Brainstorming and planning is a vital component of working smart. When we plan future plant projects we will spend a lot of time sitting and thinking (playing with ideas in our heads).
The more continual research and concerted observation we have done over time; the easier the thinking will be and the more creative and sophisticated our solutions will become.
We use our ideas, experiences, memories, and collected information to paint a picture of the practicalities involved in completing a project.
On a practical level, our plant project will be a success if the plants remain healthy and vibrant and as a result the overall system is sustainable and long-lasting.
This happens when we have a good understanding of:
What is possible and impossible in our specific environment
What the unique conditions are best suited to
Then we choose the right plants and implement intelligent design elements accordingly.
How do we do this?
We need to assess and understand a set of criteria relating to the people, land, and climate of our area.
While completing the questions we can learn through our own direct first-hand observations.
For example, this may be our recordings of the rain that has fallen in our area over the past 5 years.
Or another example, it could be our memory of how certain plants respond to different weather patterns.
We need to look, listen, think, and imagine. We need to open our eyes and ears while we walk, work, sit, and stand in the garden or plant space.
We can also learn about our unique context in South Africa by reading books, doing research on the internet, and talking to other people who are interested in plants.
For example, we could use Google to search the internet for detailed information regarding our areas historic rainfall, temperatures, and wind speeds.
Or we could read a book about our local biodiversity.
Or we could chat to our neighbours who have lived in the area for longer than us what insights they have about the drought cycles in South Africa and which water-collection and water-storage methods work best for our local context.
In so doing we can determine which plants will work best for our garden’s unique environment and specific climatic conditions.
The things that “work” well will keep on working and the things that were not meant to be will eventually die off and remain no longer. I keep focusing on what is going well.
[Einstein quote]
Each place has unique a unique combination of variables at play :
Tip 2 - clarifying your objectives; short and long term plants and a flexible idea of the progression of the garden design and landscape
Emotional and motivational side: how it works so well we can get a feeling of: “this is place is right for me; we can survive and live a great life here; this place gives me peace and joy; this is where I can make a local and global contribution; and ultimately, this is home”. This deep sense of knowing can help us to feel stable, safe, good, and have a passion to live a good life and create a great space for us to live in.
- understanding your vision and what is the “next right step”, learning, and failure – learn how plants grow in your area
Summarise the info in a drawing, a rough sketched summary of the site analysis diagrammed as overlapping bubble diagrams, focusing on relevant forms of incoming energy (wind, views, sun) and the microclimates or differences across the site.
Derive directives for the process of evaluation from your goals and the land. Make a bullet-point list and identify your site’s natural characteristics, any potential key limiting factors of the site and evaluate your resources to see if they will make your project feasable.
This is a summary of your current reality, and will you help to see the big picture and give your design a direction.
The Process of Design
Designing is all about connecting your vision with the observations made. Here you should determine what goes where using the design methods and being guided by the permaculture principles. Each of the methods offer a way to help you draw connections between elements of the design. There are many methods of design outlined by Bill Mollison in his Designers Manual, and for more info I would recommend reading his chapter on the design methods. Nonetheless, here I will focus on several of the most commonplace ones. And don’t forget those permaculture principles.!
- buying and digging (okay, lots of digging!).
Know Yourself Because You Can Only Build On Your Strengths
Everything starts with you, so who are you? David Holmgren claims: “When I was designing for a client before anything I wanted to know what kind of person are they; are they an animal, plant, technical or people person.”
You need a clear idea of what you are capable of and what relevant skills and knowledge you can offer.
What are your personal strengths that you can use to your advantage? If you want to succeed you have to build on your strengths, not your weaknesses.
Remember what Aristotle said: “Knowing yourself is the beginning of all wisdom.”
2. Identify Your Vision And Goals To Speed Both Design And Implementation
Envisage your future, what do you want? This is the why of your project – your vision. This will be your north star, guiding you towards successful achievement of your goals. Eventually, someplace down the line when to the going gets tough it will remind you of why all of this matters.
In his book, Gaia’s Garden A Guide to Home-Scale Permaculture, Toby Hemenway suggests how to do this: “The visioning phase begins with a no-holds-barred brainstorm, limited to some degree by finances and really only by ecological and ethical constraints”.
Next articulate your goals, what specifically you want to achieve, what you need that your property or farm to provide for you (what kind of food, herbs, medicinal plants, firewood, timber, or other products would you like to have?), what do you want your property to be (how it would look and feel like, and what could be happening there?)
In their book Edible Forest Gardens Eric Tonsmeier and Dave Jacke suggest that: “Articulating your answers to those questions, represents a foundational task of the design process”. This is the stage where you identify what will be the focus of the design. These goals will help direct attention to the most important aspects of the site, acting like a filter when analysing and assessing the site in the next step. The best way to articulate your ultimate objectives to write them down. By the end you should have a written statement that clearly defines what you wish to achieve.
3. List Your Personal Resources And Limitations To Know What You’re Bringing To The Table
How much time, money, and energy can you devote to the design, implementation, and maintenance of the landscape? Which of these resources could come from your family, friends, neighbours, or community?
Assess the resources on-hand for the project. What personal resources, supplies and tools do you have? What money is available for investing in the project? Is it available in a lump sum or small amounts over a longer duration? Are there any outside funding options available?
Additionally, consider potentially limiting personal factors; health, age, social issues or any other you can think of might restrict you in some way.
The type of garden we’ve created is a fusion between a wild English cottage garden and a drought-tolerant indigenous South African garden (with hundreds of species of succulents). We have beautiful climbing roses and awesome beds of succulents (image).
As I write this I am wondering what project you are currently imagining or working on…
You may be landscaping a water-wise indigenous rock garden in Port Elizabeth or Bloemfontein.
You could be curating a luxurious atrium of indoor plants in Cape Town or Durban.
You could be sitting next to a collection of potted succulents on your windowsill while you enjoy the setting sun in Cape Town or Kimberley.
You may have no plants at the moment but you’re keen like a bean to get started.
As I have observed, experimented, learned, and worked, I (along with my family) have created a fertile, well-designed, diverse, and resilient environment.
Over time I’ve also grown as a person. I have healed many scars and developed areas of myself that needed improvement. I am happy to be alive.
The rewards can be exceptional, with a modest amount of resources and physical labour. It is also comforting to know we always have the freedom to go at our own pace. It is our space and our time. Nevertheless, the process gives us so much back, in mental and physical health, that we end up going back to the garden time and time again to receive the restorative forces of anture.
or fear they don’t have the resources required to make a success of the project.
Over time I’ve felt that the more I have got to know our garden, the more it has felt like home. The relationship I have formed with my environment has made me fully realise that “home” is more than a physical place. It comes with a deep sense of knowing which ultimately translates into stability, safety, good feelings, and a passion to create a great space for us to live in.
Tip 3 - choosing the right plants accordingly
Now we can choose the right plants for our context by combining the information we have acquired through Tip 1(Observing the Environment) and Tip 2 (Deciding on Objectives). ][[][
Choosing the right plants for your conditions in South Africa and being clear about your objectives and wishes, will save you a lot of money, time, and effort in the long run.
They have learnt to observe with curiosity, experiment with creativity, fail with acceptance, learn with an open mind, and work with patience.
Conditions
If we choose the right plants they will thrive in our conditions, and not die or need special attention. They will grow and eventually they may even multiple, take cuttings get seeds and further everything on. Example: windy plants, not have things which are very vulnerable to that, or dry winters or whatever.
The hard work of digging the beds, or filling the containers, and then planting the plants is a given. There’s no way of avoiding the physical labour (but that’s probably a good thing since it is so good for our health). Less repetitive labour and work, by using design principles and understanding of how plants behave in the specific environment and how they respond to your management strategies.
However, we can make our work much easier and long-lasting if we ncorporating smart strategies using makes our hard work lighter and go further with a bigger impact.
Objectives
The plants will also help us to achieve the goals and results we are desiring. Vegetable garden, herb garden, balcony garden. Different plants are better suited to different functions, a good insight into this can help and avoid choosing the wrong plants and then having them fail and then having to spend more time and money, and left with these plants that are not fulfilling the desired function.
c and perseverance. Or they are afraid of failure, they feel that they are bound to buy plants and waste their money as the plants wither away without many returns.
This couldn’t be further from the truth.
The truth is that if we choose the right plants to grow for our area’s specific climate and conditions, we’ll see positive results almost immediately and without major effort.
Plants in the wild are naturally healthy and free from pests. Evolution has ensured that the weak genetics (which are not suited to that particular environment) have died out; leaving only those that are well and at home with the conditions. This process has taken thousands, millions, and even billions of years.
A wise gardener observes the environment they’ll be growing their plants in, and does research before-hand. Of course, there are many experiments that happen in real-time as we go along, and we will learn from the feedback as we go along. However, one can save onself a lot of effort and lost money, by learning from experienced growers in your area as to what works really well (as opposed to buying plants that look pretty in the very sheltered envrionments maintained by nurseryies, only to bring the polants home and for the health to gradually decline from day 1 until they eventually perish mid winter after you trying valiantly to keep it alive.
The power of nature will ensure that the plants grow gorgeously without there ever being a need for human intervention. We can just sit back, relax, and watch the magic happen.
often without any human input be healthy like the plants are in the wild. If we we can leave the vast majority of the work up to mother nature; allowing the sun and soil to feed the plants and the rains to give them their much needed drinks.
In order to achieve this, we first need to understand what the macroclimate is in our area, and then determine whether there are any
If we choose the right plants to grow for our specific climate, we will have the pleasure and joy of watching over our gardens as they flourish and propagate forward naturally.
If we choose plants that are not well suited to our environment, we will end up fighting a losing battle to keep them healthy in an environment they are just not made for.
(and only intervening to do some garden management on the odd occassion or when we just feel like getting involved).
The one option is high rewards with low effort, the other is low rewards with high effort. It’s a no brainer.
assist them to grow and develop into healthy mature plants. These mature plants will give back generously to their care-giver as they can parent the next generation of baby plants by producing seeds or offering good branches for cuttings. If this process is repeated then abundance can be achieved. This is what a true gardener wants. Vitality and continuity.
—
The core part of the design lies in the relative placement and proportioning of the areas. The details of the size and shape of individual elements then later evolve into the detailed design phase. Here is Dave and Eric’s perspective:” Main purpose is to work out rough layout, focusing on the relationships amongst major features, elements, functions, as well as approximate sizes, shapes, and locations.”
So, start by locating, shaping and sizing the required areas, as opposed to the individual bits and pieces, and use rough bubble diagrams with notes. The ‘design’ is actually a map or plan showing the placement of elements or components, so use your base map as your base layer and draw.
To help you determine the rough layout and design connections in this phase use the info from the analysis and assessment phase in combination with zone and sector planning; one of the master methods of design. Toby explains: “Zones organize the pieces of a design by how often they are used or need attention, and sectors help locate the pieces so they manage the forces that come from outside the site. Using zones and sectors together, we can make the best use of the connections within a design. ”
To make things easier use components of the Scale of Permanence and layer each component of the scale upon the last one. There are variations of this scale that different teachers have developed, but, for now, just be aware that in the design phase going down the scale is not a hard-and-fast rule, but it can help you organise your design thinking.
It’s best to begin with essentials, start with infrastructure: water systems (water storage, harvesting, irrigation), access (farm roads, tracks, paths), structures (house, outbuildings, portable structures) what Geoff Lawton terms ‘mainframe permaculture’.
After experimenting the with infrastructure layout distinguish main areas based on microclimates and determine planting areas for gardens, crops, orchards, and forestry.
Define fencing (permanent, living, electric) around the site and consider how animals will integrate into the system, as they are essential to the maturation of any permaculture system.
2. Create A Detailed Design And Go Into The Details Of Everything
Concept design drawings are sketchy and not very accurate, mainly taking the form of bubble diagrams. Principally, they deal with relationships between functions and spaces. Detailed design drawings are harder-edged, clearer, drawn with accuracy. Here you can start to more precisely define about all the features and characteristics you earlier laid out roughly in the conceptual design, moving from the placement of overlapping areas to the placement of distinct things and making as many positive connections as possible.
To see how the pieces of our design can be connected to create a living landscape and make those positive connections Toby suggests that: “we need to think about how each piece of the design behaves and what its relationships are with the other pieces of the landscape and with us, the human inhabitants.” He recommends using a linking process, often termed a “needs and yields analysis”, whereby each plant, structure, or other element in a design should ideally have its needs provided for by other design elements, and offer yields that themselves nurture other elements.
If you find yourself stuck with finding connections you can use another creative method of analysis: “random assembly” where you list major elements and explore the effects of combining them randomly. Creative thinking can lead to unexpected positive connections. Random assembly helps bust through creative blocks and rewards us with combinations and connections we probably would never have thought of.
During detailed design you will make a host of decisions regarding a myriad of design particulars and sketch in details of the various planting beds, trees, walls and fences, patios and decks, and any other design elements. Go down the Scale of Permanence again and map out in detail your water layer, roads and building. For planting areas determine the desired species, scrutinize your site preparation and map out your strategy development strategy.
Ultimately you should aim to create hard line drawings detailing the exact size, shape and location of every element. Bill Mollison in his Designers Manual also suggests attaching appendices such as maps, drawings, plans, layouts, details, part lists, and photos. Therefore, make construction diagrams with notes, species and material lists, estimate the cost of various stages of development, and list strategies for generating income.
Implementation Timeline – Make A Plan Of Action To Follow
If you want to turn your paper dream into a concrete reality you need to have a plan. Depending on your situation you might be able to start implementing straight away, or you may have to wait until you have enough capital to start, either way making a plan of action saves time and makes things easier further down the road.
In the implementation phase you will actually install your design in the field and evaluate as you go. The installation often occurs in phases, depending on a combination of personal, environmental, technical, seasonal and financial factors. I will leave discussing the installing phase for a comprehensive post later and for now just focus on making a plan because implementing a design is crucial and it requires planning in logical order.
At this stage just make a plan what you’re going to do, a timeline of establishment, something like a ‘to do’ list that you can follow when you forget what the next step will be. Lay out a basic timeline with suggested tasks. Make a plan what you be doing in years 1, 2, 3… based on your priorities and your budget, determine how much you can afford to pay out in the establishment phase.
Remember to plan according to the scale of permanence and start with infrastructure. If there is an existing house plan to begin the installation at your doorstep and work outwards. The logical order for implementation is: look after what you have first, restore what you can next and then finally introduce new elements into the system.
Conclusion
Design is an integrated process, whereby every piece relates to and feeds the others. The stages of the process, analysing & assessing you and the site constitute the foundation, following this you integrate your inqury results into a coherent whole – a design concept. Moreover, you must design the details of that whole to a point where you can gather all that is necessary to create it. Then you must implement the design on the ground and evaluate it regularly.
—
many different types of aloe plants – pictures of aloe plants – flowers and thorns – some similar to Aloe vera , alternatives such as Bulbine frutescens – Aloe ferox – aloe arborescens. multiple varieties,lime light
types of succulent plants – succulents for sale, succulents to buy online in South Africa
Fat plants or vetplante – get South African and Afrikaans words?
indigenous south african plants – indigenous plants in south africa – drought hardy plants
southern african plants
want to try out being a gardener, now you are wondering how to do it and which plants to start with – best idea is start with what works in the environment (indigenous)
plants of south africa, plants in South Africa
20,000 plant species
20,000. plant species are found in South Africa – an astonishing 10% of all plants found on Earth.
South Africa | Fauna & Flora International https://www.fauna-flora.org/countries/south-africa#:~:text=20%2C000,all%20plants%20found%20on%20Earth.
Africa includes approximately 45,000 plant species – https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fevo.2014.00038/full#:~:text=Africa%20includes%20approximately%2045%2C000%20plant,the%20continent%20(Figure%201).
This reaches an extreme in the Cape flora, with some 70% endemism to the winter rainfall region (Snijman, 2013) – https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fevo.2014.00038/full#:~:text=Africa%20includes%20approximately%2045%2C000%20plant,the%20continent%20(Figure%201).
ferns
succulent seeds can be tricky, cuttings can be bigger friendly
flowering plants to create a beautiful entrance to your front door or gate – decoration plants – lots of different flower types and colours
plants at woolworths or builders or even worse, is it safe to looking for and buy plants on gumtree
Keen to shop for plants to help change your house (feels dead) into a home (feels alive)
nursuries for plants near me
plant shop near me
indigenous plant nursery near me – trees, shrubs, water-wise plants, succulents
plants for sale
garden center
plants for sale near me
trees for sale, succulent trees south africa, south african trees for sale, spekboom
place to buy plants online in South Africa then you are in ghood luck as we believe we are excellent and cute thanks
perennial plants as opposed to annual plants (get a mixture going, vegetables)
plant cells with double walls succulents
jade plants – Crassula ovata , example of a big indoor succulent that can grow quite large in a big enough pot and with the right conditions – hanging succulents also become quite a spectacle, such as the string of bananas – fun alternative to the elegant string of pearls Curio rowleyanus
succulents are generally evergreen ? Evergreen plants of South Africa This means they look good both in winter and summer as they do not lose their leaves in winter. Given enough sun and a bit of water-stress some can develop red leaves – money plant, money tree, lucky plant
plants that repel snakes, flies, mosquitos – insect repellant plants – and those that help with insect bites and stings
cactus plants, cactuses, cacti,
plants in the desert, veld, karoo, etc (fill more)
outdoor plants in pots
garden pots for plants for sale (with designs suitable for both indoor and outdoor use)
looking for cheap pot plants but what they don’t realise is that they are being overcharged for the pot and the soil, rather just buy cuttings, buy the pots and soil yourself and DIY it
indoor potted plants – ideas for great pot plants – indoor pot plants South Africa – large potted plant as a centerpiece with others arranged around it
range of indoor plants for sale that are easy to to take care of and do not need a lot of water
indoor flowering plants or indoor flopwering succulents that will brighten up your day with a lekker surprise – purple, yellow, white, orange, pink, etc. coloured flowers – South African flowering plants
big leaf plants – cotyledon
great plants for your garden
indoor pot plants for South African conditions – could be in your bedroom, office, study, boardroom, reception, braai area, zen garden, patio, lounge or living room, kitchen, bathroom, or stoep/porch/verandah, pond, embankment, around your lawn, business, balcony plants for your city apartment,
terrarium plants or plants for you and your child to make a fairy garden, bonsai succulents for a courtyard or entertainment area (if you’re looking for a bonsai tree for sale, why not make your own one, much cheaper you can make a collection instead of one lonely expensive one.)
best indoor plants (best indoor succulents) – we have many different types of indoor plants – indoor plant ideas
money plants
culinary kitchen garden with herbs and spices (food) = herb and vegetable garden South Africa – windbreak to protect
medicinal plants and herbs (chillis, rosemary, cannabis/marijuana plants) – medicinal plants of south africa
plants for a border around your herb garden
crassulas
agave plants
potted plants for sale
shrubs
windbreak plants
succulent shrubs
drought-tolerant shrubs
succulent bushes
indigenous shrubs South Africa
curio
houseplants for sale – indoor houseplants
hanging plants – hoya plants – while these exotic plants can be nice the local varieties such as string of bananas are incredible and people all over the world clamour for these plants (we are very fortunate to have these plants in our own home country)
rocky area with snakes, snake repellent plants – plants that keep snakes away – coleus neochilus for sale – they are indigenous plants with striking purple flowers that can be seen throughout the year (especially if they receive enough sun).
mosquito repellent plants, fly repellent plants
plant pot stands
air plants
artificial plants South Africa, faux or fake plants, plastic, made in China when we have some of the best plants in the world
wall plants for vertical, vertical garden for balcony or lounge, use the height of a space when floor space and earth is at a minimum, space with limited floorspace – instead of buying a plants wallpaper, why not have the real deal growing on your wall – can build up your collection over time, they don’t even need to start on the wall. Hanging wall plants
vine plants, creeping plants, climbing plants, ground cover plants plants that can keep the soil covered even in the South African sun.
hedging plants available in South Africa at affordable rates and grow well in our climate (indigenous hedging plants) – hedges, plants to make a hedge
indoor hanging plants that are well-suited for growing in hanging baskets, indoor hanging succulents
low light indoor plants and succulents
protea plant fire
companion plants, in a water-wise garden, succulents
not really looking for plants in the rainforest
names of plants, how to find out, contact me and I will help you to ID it
plants that grow well in the shade, plants for shade South Africa succulents that grow in the shade
plants and succulents that grow in full sun
plants and succulents that grow in partial shade
pots, hanging baskets, indoor wooden plant stands for pots to elevate and emphasise them, decorative pots, pot holder, potting tables, indoor plant pots, outdoor or indoor shelves, wall mounts (wall plants for both indoors and outdoors) , wall hangers
Tip 4: Sunlight & Light
The plants we sell love being in a warm sunny spot, although each species of plant has specific preferences and these can be ascertained by doing a bit of research. Even if you’re looking for indoor plants for sale, many of the options we offer will do great for that. Most of our plants are not “fussy”, however, over time, through observation and experience, you’ll get to know whether your plants are happy where they are or not. Generally one wants to try and mimic the plant’s natural environment as closely as possible. Plants acclimatise slowly to different environments by changing their leaf orientation, structure, colour, as well as metabolic processes. If possible, we should try not to move them around too much.
Most prefer at least 6 hours of direct sun or bright indirect light (approximately half a day). Many can tolerate a full-day of sun (up to 12 hours), and in some species the more sun they receive the more colourful and beautiful they become. In extremely hot areas, some species may benefit from some afternoon shade, just to let them cool off after a hot morning and midday session. Most succulents do not like full and deep shade for the entire day (although some are alright with it). Get to know your plants and you’ll have colourful cactuses flowers and your garden will be decorated with flowering succulent groundcovers in no time.
By spending time in your home or garden observing the path of the sun, one will familiarise oneself with where the light and shadows move during the day. The sun always rises in the east and sets in the west. Certain areas will be in the sun in the morning while shaded in the afternoon, or vice versa. During summer the sun is usually more overhead at mid-day than in winter. During midday in summer the sun’s rays are also stronger because when the sun is over-head the rays shine straight downwards which means they have to travel through the least amount of atmosphere and the angle means the ultraviolet rays from the sun are not as easily reflected back into space.
Check the direction your flower beds or windows are facing (and any obstacles that may block sunlight and cast a shadow). Since we are in the southern hemisphere, north-facing windows and beds will receive the most light, east-facing places will get the gentle morning light, west-facing areas will get the moderate afternoon light, whereas south-facing windows give low light. If all you have is a shaded area in your home or garden, then we recommend going with a low light-tolerant plant. You can contact us if this is the case for you.
Some plants are quite tolerant of partial shade (if the plant stretches out a lot or looks like it is dying, that is a sign it may not be happy). Individual plant preferences can be researched on the internet.
As their caretaker you will get an idea of whether they need more sun by observing their growth-habit. If they become pale, lanky and stretched-out, or start leaning towards their light-source, that is a sign they want more light. Compact and colourful plants are usually the most healthy and aesthetically pleasing.
Too much harsh light might show signs of the leaves “burning” or shriveling, however, it must be noted that many succulents and drought-tolerant plants are well adapted to the sun and heat. A change in leaf colour (for example turning more red or pink) is not necessarily a problem; they often do this in their natural environment and it is perfectly natural.
As a general rule of thumb plant varieties that are solid green, pale, or variegated are most in danger of sun burn (however there are always exceptions and so getting to know each species is usually the best approach). On the other hand, plants with leaves that are red, gray, blue, or covered densely with spines (which help to reflect the sun’s rays) are often well equipped to handle harsher brighter areas. Once again though, this is a generalisation.
Tip 5: Watering your plants -
When determining how much to water your plants (and how often), it is important to take into account exactly which plants you are growing (and their particular water requirements), as well as the environment that you are growing them in (most importantly temperatures and rainfall, as well as wind conditions).
The majority of the plants we sell are classified as xerophytes.
Xerophytes are plants that have adaptations and characteristics which enable them to survive in dry and often hot conditions.
These evolutionary adaptations have enabled our indigenous plants to survive and thrive in the challenging conditions in South Africa. As a whole our average mamimum are above average in average temperature but below average in terms of rainfall.
Our climate is generally sunny and warm in summer (with seasonal rains), and then cooler temperatures and lower precipitation in winter. However, there are different climactic zones, and each gardener would do well to familiarise themself with the specific climactic patterns of there area.
ur country is drier than the global average by some distance, with significant seasonal changes in rainfall and temperature from summer to winter, and also sometimes unpredictable weather patterns).
This is why we love selling indigenous South African succulents and water-wise plants; they have stood the test of time and have evolved specifically to not only survive but also thrive in our climate. This enables our customers to get the best results with the least amount of effort and losses.
Unfortunately, this advantage does come with the disadvantage of the plants not enjoying water-logged and wet soils for prolonged periods of time (particularly if they are also in the shade). There’s no need to worry though, as very few places are actually inhospitable to the plants we sell (as we have mentioned, they are indegenous and occur naturally in the veld).
The main rule of thumb is that the soil should be afforded an opportunity to dry out between watering. Which makes perfect sense, since these plants are capable of surviving without a lot of water, so why should we give them more water when they already have or had recently. It is well intentioned and many gardeners feel that the more water they give to the plants the better, however, this is actually creating an unfamiliar environment for these plants (they have been tried and tested in these conditions over thoiusands of years), so over-watering the plants is not necessary. The key point to remember is that these indigenous plants have evolved right here in our country and so theoretically, they have evolved to survive in our country without any extra watering from the gardener. The plants in the wild don’t have a special gardener that comes to water them when they need an extra bit of water, so we should nopt feel guilty for not watering them too often. Instead, if anything, we can look for signs of underwatering as a gauge for when to water. In the Most succulents can survive without any watering during the rainy season, and can also perhaps once a week or once every two weeks at the most. In most parts of South Africa this is not a problem, but, for instance, in the eastern part of the country which is more tropical, there are periods where there is consistent rail for weeks and the high humidity amplifies the challenge for the plants to dry out.
A good rule of thumb is to allow the soil to dry between watering (usually once the top 3cm has become dry, and this can be tested with your finger). Don’t simply water on a schedule; as plant caretakers we need to observe the state of the soil and our plants’ health and water accordingly. Furthermore, we should reduce watering during autumn and winter when the temperatures are colder. This is because the plant is not in a very active growth period and hence will not be drinking as much water. During spring and summer the plants will be growing faster, and the hotter temperatures will cause the water to evaporate faster, meaning we can and should water them more.
Generally, we advise watering deeply and more infrequently, rather than lightly and frequently. When we water lightly and frequently, only the top roots will have access to the water and your plant won’t get a nice satisfying drink. Done for long enough this will create a more shallow root system as the roots lower down will die (or not develop if they haven’t yet). Watering deeply, which entails watering your plants with a decent amount of water, allows for all the roots to grab a drink. To gauge the right amount of water, slowly water your plant, pausing every now and then to watch the water soak into the soil. When the water is not draining through the soil anymore (and it sits above the soil), this means you have most likely watered the plant enough. A final check in potted plants would be to see whether the water is draining out the drainage holes (if so, then you can stop).
The number-one mistake many people make with succulents is overwatering them. Over-watering is a bigger immediate threat to your plants than under-watering. Why? Over-watering can cause root rot and other diseases, which can kill your plant (and you usually can’t see this happening since it all happens underground). If the potting mix stays consistently wet every day, the plant may become stressed or eventually die. You will eventually see signs of stress and rot, but it may be too late by this stage. To rescue an over-watered plant, stop watering immediately and allow the soil to dry out. Root rot is less likely for plants planted directly into the ground (particularly if the soil drains well), as the water is not prevented from flowing away. We must also bare in mind that the cooler and shadier the place, the slower water will evaporate from the soil, so be careful of this.
On the other hand, if you are underwatering you will see the leaves either wilted, shriveled, or in succulents they will become thinner, wrinkled, or less plump. If you see these signs, that means your plants would probably like a bit more water. Just make sure to keep your plants well-watered if they are planted in a hot sunny spot (especially when they are recently planted and are still developing a decent root system). This simply means we must try keep the soil moist, but not too wet and water-logged (as this can cause rot).
Particularly for indoor succulents and other xeriphytic plants (dry-loving)it is better to water the soil directly (avoiding the leaves and stems), as water can take a while to evaporate in places with low sunlight and airflow. If the water sits for too long in the crevices of the plant it could cause rot.
Tip 6: Soil - Creating a good quality soil mix for your potted succulent plants or garden landscape in South Africa
plants are means they azre generally not “fussy” and tolerate most types of soils.
The soil must dry out regularly
The main concern when choosing a place to plant succulents and other xerophytes is to assess whether the soil they are to grow in drains well; and that the area gets dry regularly (which is assisted by direct sunlight).
These plants can tolerate the drought and poor soils in South Africa but if they are always wet some of them may be unhealthy or rot.
Create your own mix
Some people enjoy creating their own soil mixes, and there are many resources out there that can help with researching the topic.
We have a simple but successful strategy for soil:
For the base mixture we advise mixing 50% top soil with 50% compost.
You can then also add some small stones, pebbles, gravel, vermiculite to add some larger particle sizes which will aid drainage and prevent muddy clogged soils.
Another possibility is to add some coarse river sand (not beach sand as this is too salty) to keep the soil loose and increase drainage.
Succulents and xerophytic plants enjoy these additions, but they are not compulsory.
Where to buy soil
Your local nursery or gardening centre should sell all of these if you don’t have any on hand. You may also find reputable sellers online through websites or marketplaces. Just make sure to take all the necessary anti-fraud precautions.
You may find a special succulent potting mix, or fast-draining soil mixes, or cactus potting mixes, or other special pre-mixes. Try out different options and experiment with them.
Amending soils
Soils with a high percentage of clay (clay-heavy soils) don’t drain well and when there has been a lot of rain they can become water-logged. Furthermore, in the dry season the soils harden and become solid, which can damage plant roots. This means it is usually a good idea to amend the clay soil with some compost and organic matter (dried leaves or grass).
Soils with a high percentage of sand (sand-heavy soils) are often low in nutrients which means these soils will benefit greatly from the addition of compost and organic matter (dry grass clippings and leaves).
Tip 7: Nutrients and food for your plants - How to fertilise South African succulents and water-wise indoor plants
epsom salts for plants
comfrey tea
worm tea
manure
compost
bokashi
alternatives to bone meal for plants
what do plants need to grow? Which nutrients are essential
Don’t feel guilty if you don’t fertilise your plants often.
In fact, most of the plants we sell are able to survive in low-nutrient environments.
Nevertheless, all living things enjoy some good food. So if we’d like to ensure optimal growth for our plants, there may be certain instances where fertilising is a good idea or even necessary.
How often to fertilise and when
Plants that have been in the same pot for about 6 months should receive a health and soil inspection to determine whether they need fertiliser yet. If they are still in good health one can decide to delay applying nutrients (especially if it is not the plants growing season). If the plant displays characteristics of nutrient deficiencies then one needs to feed the plant or repot to with fresh soil and compost (as fresh soil has enough new nutrients).
Is my plant in need of fertiliser or new soil
If a plant is looking unhealthy and you don’t think the problem is related to over-watering or under-watering then it may be due to a nutrient deficiency (too few nutrients) or nutrient surplus (too many nutrients).
It may have used up all the goodness in the soil (especially if it has been living in the same place for some time) or you may have over fertilised it by accident.
If you feel the plant is under-fed then now would be the time to either spread some fresh compost at the base of the plant, fertilise it, or it may even be time to repot the plant into the same pot with fresh soil or even a bigger container if you feel it needs an upgrade.
General rule of thumb with fertilising
Almost all plants like at least some fertiliser, once or twice a year (particularly during the growing season, which depends on the location and climate but for the majority of our plants it is early spring to late autumn).
Some will need more than others and catering to each plant’s particular needs is one of the many skills of gardening.
Add during growing season:
During the growing season in South Africa the days are longer and sunnier and there is more rain; which results in active vegetative growth and often flowering.
The increased growth rate means they will have greater nutrient requirements.
No fertiliser during semi-dormant of slow-growth phase:
Nevertheless, it’s not necessary to fertilise them frequently (especially in when they are not actively growing and have switched to a semi-dormant state, perhaps in the colder months of winter).
During their slow-growth period they don’t require the nutrient boost nearly as much.
What type and quantity of fertiliser
One can use a balanced organic fertiliser, with equal parts nitrogen (N), potassium (K), and phosphorus (P). They will also benefit from the addition of micronutrients and trace minerals as well to ensure they receive the full spectrum of inputs that they require.
Examples
NB – Important: Just make sure when applying fertiliser to use the recommended quantities shown on the packaging of the product. In fact, we often recommend diluting the recommended quantities by about half. This is because the recommendations are often quite strong, sometimes because the manufacturers want us to use more of the product quicker (so they can sell more).
Too much fertiliser can actually do more harm than good if we’re not careful; so we should follow the general rule of thumb: ‘less is more’.
If you feel you may have over-done the fertiliser then don’t panic. Hold any further additions until the symptoms ease up (and use more modest amounts in the future once the plant has recovered).
Tip 8: Containers and pots
searching for pots for plants in South Africa
pot plants
container plants
planters, wooden planters, planter boxes, wall planters, wooden planter box
trays for planting seedlings and cuttings
sizes – large pots for big plants are more for trees – small pot for your succulent plants that are cute and small
different materials: plastic, ceramic, cement, metal, glass, etc.
ceramic pot plants are a great option, terracotta pots (great for succulents as they “breathe” and self-regulate a bit on water levels, glazed, stoneware
small houseplants
pots with plants
pots for succulents
plant pots for sale
pots for water-wise plants
pots for indoor plants
pots for outdoors
hangers for plants
hanging baskets for plants
Use a vessel with sufficient drainage holes at the bottom to allow water to exit after watering. Stagnant water at the bottom of the container can stress your plants; possibly creating root rot and other diseases.
Succulent plants such as Lampranthus amoenus, and other drought-tolerant plants such as the Dracaena trifasciata (formerly Sansevieria trifasciata, also known as the “snake plant”, or “mother in laws tongue” plant) really don’t like “wet feet”.
Terracotta pots are usually the best for succulents and low-water plants (although most materials can work just fine).
One can use a sauces or decorative pot underneath the grow pot to catch the excess water so that it does not make a mess. Just remember to empty these otherwise the grow pot will be sitting in water and this does not allow the soil to dry out. If you’re forced to use a container without drainage holes then we advise watering sparingly.
In terms of container size: Choose a pot that is in a good ratio to the size of the plant (with some room to grow downwards and sideways, but not too much.
Some people are tempted to plant a tiny plant in a large pot, so that it does not need to be repotted in the future. However, this actually poses some risks: instead of “growing into” the size of the new spacious pot, the plant may suffer from root rot. This is because even if you think you’re not over-watering, the small plant’s roots are not yet able to use up all of the water that a large pot of soil holds (and so the water often just sits there).
Creative container ideas
Hanging baskets or raised containers that are bolted to a support structure such as a wall or fence, can be great containers for plants that have a trailing nature, as they will hang down in an aesthetic fashio, where it may grow ontop of everything if left to grow in the ground. Such as a string of pearls (Curio rowleyanus), or string of bananas (Curio radicans). Or even an Aptenia cordifolia. Othonna capensis or Othonna capensis “ruby necklace”. Crassula pellucida, In fact hanging colourful succulents have got to be one of the most trendy ways to create ambiance and depth in a green space.
Tip 9: Maintenance Pruning + Weeding + Our succulent pots are fully grown. So, how do we repot our potted plants?
Our job as the stewards and managers is to do the smart work of understanding and managing the environment, intervening only when necessary to restore balance by dealing with any overgrowing plants or ill plants and deciding to plant some new plants in an open space.
If we work smart, the plants will do over 90% of the hard work.
I have witnessed with my own eyes just how incredibly resilient plants can be and have felt with my own heart the incredible extent of nature’s generosity.
bonsai trees from pruning and management
geranium + pelagonium
Marigold
harvesting, such as dragon fruit and others
If your plant is no longer growing well during the growing season, or it seems too big for its pot, then it is probably time to repot the plant and give it fresh soil.
For example, when it is time to move your cactus plant into a new cactus pot, choose one that is just 5 to 8 centimeters larger in diameter than the previous one.
Furthermore, when repotting, don’t pull or yank the plant out the pot by its stem or “head” (this can damage and stress the plant).
Rather: Carefully tip the pot on its side, or slightly upside-down; so that you are not fighting against gravity.
Carefully work the angle of the pot while gently pulling the plant until the plant slides out the pot (the roots should be big enough by now to hold the soil if you are repotting it).
Just make sure to cradle the root ball of the plant so it does not lose soil, fall, or get damaged.
Tip 10: Air Circulation
Place these plants in an area that has good air circulation. The majority of the plants we sell are indigenous to South Africa or are endemic to warm, arid climates and depend on good air circulation to breathe. If they are kept in a place that is constantly humid and moist, with poor airflow, they will most likely eventually become unhealthy. So if you are keeping your plants indoors then perhaps open some windows and doors to create a good through-draft if you feel your plants might need it.
If you notice dust or other debris accumulating on or in-between leaves of plants you can help them out by wiping them clean or dislodging any objects.
Like many plants, the lowest leaves on the stem (closest to the soil) will eventually shrivel up, die, and fall off. This is normal and there’s nothing to worry about. If the upper leaves are dying, however, it could indicate overwatering, pests, or disease.
Arrangement and pruning
Living stones and ground covers
Even if it is things that we don’t have for sale such as cycads, lithops, and grasses.
Johannesburg botanical gardens, the national botanical gardens in Pretoria, or the Kistenbosch botanical gardens in Cape Town.
Pruning (many potential bonsai trees for sale). Wiping leaves
Tip 11 - Propagating plants - How to propagate water-wise plants and succulents from seed and cuttings
If your succulent is getting older and has either become a bit leggy or has produced lots of “babies” it is an option to prune the mother plant a bit by “chopping and propping” or carefully removing the pups and giving them their own new home to grow in. Even leaf propagation is possible for example with Graptopetalum paraguayense, where one can break off the firm succulent leaves and eventually a succulent platlet will develop and grow new roots, which will eventually grow into a fully-grown plant.
Propagating succulents is particularly easy, however, many plants can be propagated with ease. Who knows, maybe you’ll even have some of your own house plants for sale someday. Cotyledon orbiculata macrantha variety.
Just remember that once you have taken a cutting of your plant, let it dry out in the shade for at least 3 days (usually 7 days is ideal). This process, known as “healing”, gives the cutting time to form a callus which is a hardened layer that covers where the fresh wound was before. This layer protects the cutting when it is later inserted into the soil; helping to reduce the likelihood of rot or diseases entering the wound. Once the callus is fully formed then the cutting can be planted.
Cuttings or rhizomes, sexual and asexual reproduction in plants
Give some people some plants for Christmas or even their birthday
Kalanchoe, propagate by babies
Crassula babies too
Echeverias pups
All sorts of ways to propagate plants
Tip 12 Pests and diseases
Plant Care & Grow Guide
Insect repellant natural for plants
Tip 13 for gardener as an individual, the benefits and what to expect
Insect repellant natural for plants
This realisation is what motivated me to found Plant Shop Africa.
If you’ve spent time working with plants and enjoyed the sense of connection it brings, then you most likely have similar feelings.
If you’re a person whose been waiting for the right time to get started with gardening, then this could very well be a magical sign. In fact, I’m confident that with the support of this guide you’ll have no problems falling in love with the soil, sun, succulents, stretches, squats, sounds, sights, and insights. – if youve read this far
Tip 14 - Tip for society Why should we create a diverse drought-tolerant garden, or keep a collection of indoor houseplants?
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Ut elit tellus, luctus nec ullamcorper mattis, pulvinar dapibus leo.
Plants can be great companions and the process of caring for them can teach us many meaningful life lessons.
As a collective, plants can also help us to create safe spaces for rest, peace, play, and creativity.
The process of creating a garden or green living area calls us to a place of higher consciousness. This is true regardless of whether we’re growing potted houseplants indoors or growing trees outdoors in the garden or on the farm.
At first, the creative process invites us to use our imaginations to visualise an amazing space that we’d like to create, spend time in, and share with our loved ones.
Next we embark on the journey of manifesting our ideas, one day at a time. This process requires of us to cultivate various characteristics, such as patience, acceptance, will-power, and trust.
The challenges we encounter along the way, remind us to keep learning, remembering, healing, and growing. The overall experience is fun, magical, scintillating, and soulful.
Ultimately, working with plants helps us to become more aware of the interplay between our inner and outer worlds.
In terms of how we relate to ourselves and our inner world: we feel more alive and evolve as human beings; we find purpose and goodness in our lives; our sense of self-understanding deepens as we get a better sense of our capabilities and limitations, and we can experience a deep sense of fulfillment, self-worth, and inner peace.
In terms of how we relate to others and the world around us: The colours and vitality of our plants help us to feel grounded in our immediate environment. This stability in our own space can help us to remain centered so that we can act in the current context of our busy global human society. By answering the call to heal our planet and face the many social challenges we share; we embark on a life which is important, relevant, and meaningful.
So let’s continue on this wonderful journey. Let’s keep planting the change we wish to see in the world.
Tip 15 - Indigenous plants and water-wise succulents for sale in our South African online plant shop
We specialise in drought-tolerant plants which are affordable, easy to grow, and can survive without a lot of water or maintenance.
Plant Shop Africa operates nation-wide in South Africa; delivering your plants conveniently and efficiently straight to your home or office.
About the author
Hello to all the Plant Peeps!
My name is Jethro Burnett Thorburn and I’m the founder and owner of Plant Shop Africa.
I sell indigenous water-wise plants and succulents via the online plant shop on this website; and I deliver orders throughout South Africa.
You’re welcome to contact me if you need assistance with purchasing plants or designing your ideal indoor or outdoor plant space.
