I’ve written this guide to help you succeed with your plants…
If you have any questions or ideas to share then feel free to contact me.
You can see from the smile on my face that I love growing plants…
I want to help you enjoy the magic too! ☺
A summary of the process
► Step 1 – Making time for your plants
Summary : Try to check up on your plants regularly.
► Step 2 – Locating & arranging your plants
Summary : Take into consideration the different factors to find the best place for your plants to grow.
~ ~ ~ Consideration 1: Growing outdoors or indoors?
Summary : Whether you’re growing indoors or outdoors, don’t just choose any place; find the best spot within that space for your plants.
~ ~ ~ Consideration 2: Sunlight and shade
Summary : Find a place for your plants that is sunny (at least 6 hours per day). Some plants can do with less, chat to us about your needs.
~ ~ ~ Consideration 3: Soil and topography
Summary : Most soils are fine for succulents (some compost helps them grow better). If your plants aren’t growing well chat to us for help.
~ ~ ~ Consideration 4: Wind and airflow
Summary : Succulents and indigenous plants can usually tolerate wind and hence make a good windbreak or hedge.
~ ~ ~ Consideration 5: Temperatures
Summary : These plants can tolerate most temperatures but below 0 degrees Celsius and above 40 degrees Celsius is not ideal.
~ ~ ~ Consideration 6: Shape and size
Summary : Think about the sizes and shapes of your plants when arranging them. Do it with purpose and design (not randomly).
~ ~ ~ Consideration 7: Aesthetic and ambiance
Summary : Be creative and express yourself. Different colours and textures can create a variety of aesthetics.
► Step 3a – Preparing soil and compost
Summary : A 1:1 mix of topsoil and compost (half/half) is fine for succulents and indigenous plants. No need for anything fancy. Compost helps plants to be healthy.
► Step 3b (optional) – Preparing pots and planters
Summary : Choose the right size for your plants. Think about making your own pots before buying new ones.
► Step 4 – When and how to plant
Summary : Get your plants in the ground ASAP once they have arrived.
► Step 5 – Watering
Summary : Water your plants once the soil has dried out. Usually once a week or once every two weeks. Don’t overwater your succulents!
► Step 6 – Observing and monitoring
Summary : Keep an eye on your plants and look for signs of good or poor health. Contact us if you’re unsure about anything.
► Step 7 – Research
Summary : If you have questions about gardening in general, or a specific species of plant, do some research.
► Extra info – Where I grow my plants
Summary : I tell you about my growing environment on my family’s farm.
Step 1 – Making time for your plants
Interacting with our plants and observing our environment is a brilliant investment of our energy.
Over time our skills, knowledge, and intuition naturally develop.
Gradually our ability to co-design and co-create with nature evolves .
Eventually we can grow abundant green spaces that buzz with vitality!
And there’s more…
The sunshine and peacefulness is also very healing, rewarding, and fulfilling ! ☺
► Do what works for you:
You could schedule specific times for your plants or you may prefer to go with the flow and be more spontaneous…
Figure out what works for you; just don’t forget about your babies!
To be safe, you could make a reminder for yourself (e.g. a written note or alarm on your phone).
Step 2 – Placing your plants
Growing plants requires us to make spatial design decisions .
We must figure out how to position groups of vegetation as well as each individual plant.
This process is a big part of the art and science of gardening .
This section will help you make good design decisions and achieve wonderful results ☺
If you ever need a second opinion, send me an email or message !
►► Decisions, decisions, decisions:
There are two types of decisions that you will need to make:
Decision 1:
Where is a good area in my garden or house for my plants to grow?
Decision 2:
Where is a good position for each individual plant within this area?
►► Considerations and your vision:
The sub-sections coming up below are titled ‘Considerations’ because they are the factors you’ll need to think about when making the decisions mentioned above.
The considerations are as follows:
1. Growing outdoors or indoors?
You don’t need to memorise and strictly refer to the Considerations, however it is recommended to keep these things in mind when deciding where to position their plants.
Considerations in relation to decision 1:
In the space available to you there may various areas where you can possibly grow your plants.
You need to choose the best option so your plants can thrive.
If you rush and just choose any place then you may be disappointed.
So before you finalise your decision you should assess all the possibilities.
Then you can make a choice and start preparing the space right away ! ☺
Considerations in relation to decision Decision 2:
Next, you can plan how to arrange the individual plants within the space so that they grow healthily and harmoniously.
I find it easiest to think about this while walking or sitting in the space and observing .
Take your time and keep the Considerations in mind while pondering.
It’s not necessary to have an exact plan for where each specific plant is going to be planted.
It’s absolutely fine if you finalise each plant’s position as you plant it.
Nevertheless, being well-prepared will mean that you can start planting soon after the plants arrive (rather than leaving them to lie around while you plan).
►► Step 2 – Consideration 1: Growing outdoors or indoors?
This section will supply information for growing plants outdoors and indoors.
► Growing Outdoors:
Growing outdoors is the most natural way to keep plants. There is plenty of sun, air movement, and your plants benefit from the rain and natural precipitation.
There are 2 approaches to starting cuttings outdoors:
Approach 1: Planted directly into the garden
I will explain what each approach requires below.
You can choose one approach, or use both.
Approach 1 – Planted directly into the garden:
We can plant cuttings directly into the flowerbeds of our gardens . It’s not compulsory for us to start them in pots.
When I propagate cuttings I simply walk around my garden and prune some of the bigger plants. Next I look for gaps or spaces in my flowerbeds where I then stick the cuttings into the soil so they can form roots and grow.
My recommendations:
I recommend spreading some compost on top of the soil as a mulch, or digging it into the soil . This will help to soften and enrich the soil which will make it easy to stick the cuttings into the flowerbed (and they will also grow faster and healthier).
One can use a small hand-spade or fork to dig and soften the soil so you can easily stick the cuttings deep enough into the soil that they can balance and be sturdy.
This method works especially well if you are able to keep the soil moist using irrigation/watering when there is no rain. It is okay to allow the top 3cm of the soil to dry out but then we need to water again.
If the soil is dry the cuttings can start to lose water so you may need to water several times a week (especially if it is hot and/or windy).
Certain plant species can grow with water once per week (or even less); so it’s also up to you if you want to experiment with watering less frequently.
Observation and monitoring:
Just use careful observation to monitor the health of the cuttings to make sure they are receiving enough water .
Some leaves may shrink, wilt, wrinkle, or even fall off, this often happens and is not necessarily a problem.
The cuttings will now begin focussing their stored energy on growing new roots . The leaves aren’t a priority for now.
However, if the cutting is showing heavy signs of drying out then one needs to water more frequently.
Approach 2 – Potted in a sheltered space:
One outdoor gardening approach is to create a small nursery area where we can grow our plants in pots or containers .
This approach works well for propagation (starting new plants). With this approach you can give the cuttings some extra care while they grow their new roots.
Even if we intend to plant the plants in the garden in the future this approach can give us time to locate and prepare their new homes .
Where to locate your nursery:
A good place for a nursery would be a stoep/porch, courtyard, or any flat section of your garden where you are able to water regularly .
Having your plants in one place can make it this easier to monitor and water them.
Just remember that succulents love sun and cuttings from succulents can easily start growing in full-sun (and some wind won’t bother them much either).
They need at least 6 hours of good sunlight per day , and more is usually better.
The best way you can increase your chances of success is by keeping the soil moist .
Extra shelter:
We can also put in measures to shelter the plants from strong winds and direct sunlight if need be.
This will create a gentler growing environment with lower watering needs .
You could use trees, shade netting, or other structures for shade or as a windbreak.
Where I live in the Eastern Cape it is very dry and there are strong winds during autumn and winter. During this period I use my nursery to protect my new cuttings.
My nursery is located in a flat, sheltered place in my garden, and I have 40% shade netting overhead (I wouldn’t recommend using higher than 40%).
► Growing Indoors:
If you’re going this route then you’ll likely be growing your plants in pots or planters . Remember that good pots should have drainage holes.
Find a sunny place:
When growing indoors the most important of your plants’ needs to consider is warmth and sunlight .
The plants that I sell enjoy lots of sun , so I would recommend that you find a nice sunny place for them.
Here’s some examples of places to grow plants indoors:
• In a pot or hanging planter by a sunny window• In an entranceway or study area• On windowsills in bedrooms, kitchens, lounges, etc.• Office windows or business reception areas
Also bear in mind that it takes longer for water to evaporate indoors, so make sure not to overwater.
Let the top 3cm of the soil dry out and then water soon after .
Bear in mind that certain species are better suited for growing indoors than others.
Do your research and feel free to contact me for advice or assistance .
►► Step 2 – Consideration 2 – Sunlight and shade:
All life on Earth depends on the sun and the energy it radiates.
Plants combine sunlight, water, and carbon dioxide to produce oxygen, glucose (sugars – which they use for energy).
Plants are essentially magical solar panels!
► How much sun is needed?
Succulents and indigenous plants grow best in a position that receives at least 6 hours of good sunlight per day. In fact, many species will enjoy having sun for the whole day.
Nevertheless, certain species can do just fine with less than 6 hours of sun , but in this instance light or dappled shade is usually better than heavy shade.
With observation, experimentation, and research we can determine the sunlight requirements of different plant species.
► Signs a plant is not receiving enough sunlight:
If your plants don’t receive enough good quality sunlight they won’t grow as vigorously and won’t flower as often.
Plants that are not suited to shade or not receiving adequate sunlight can show the following signs:
► Sign 1 – Etiolation:
This is the scientific term used to decribe the process whereby plants stems stretch to abnormal extremes to seek for more sunlight.
This can occur in both houseplants and outdoor plant and can be identified by stems that grow longer than usual with fewer or smaller leaves (which can also be spaced further apart).
Another sign of etiolation is if the plant is leaning heavily towards the light source
► Sign 2 – Lack of growth:
If you have the same species of plant in a sunnier spot and they are growing fine whereas the plant in the shadier position isn’t growing at all (or very minimally) that can be a sign of insufficient light.
► Sign 3 – Absence of flowering during flowering season:
Different species of plants flower at different times of year (although some can flower year round). While lack of sunlight is not the only cause for lack of flowering it can be one of them.
Sign 4 – Rot or disease:
Certain species of plants do not like to sit in moisture for too long. If there is not enough sun to dry out the soil after they are finished drinking their roots could begin to rot which will eventually be visible as illness or disease in the plant aboveground.
► How the sun moves:
Everywhere in the world the sun rises in the east in the morning and sets in the west in the evening .
This is why the east-facing side of gardens and houses will receive the gentle morning sun and the west-facing side will receive the stronger afternoon sun.
► Summer versus winter:
The sun behaves differently in summer compared to winter. Spring and autumn are somewhere in between the two.
The sun in summer:
In summer the sun is positioned more directly overhead (especially around the middle of the day), as can be seen in the image below:
The atmosphere always reflects some of the sunlight approaching our planet, however, when the sun’s rays hit the atmosphere at a perpendicular or vertical angle (during summer and mid-day) then a lower percentage of the sunlight from the sun is reflected back into space.
This is why it is hotter in summer.
Clouds can also play a role in reflecting some sunlight away from Earth and back into the atmosphere, that is why cloudy days are often cooler.
Furthermore, there is less shade in summer and at mid-day because the sun’s rays are travelling straight down onto the objects from above.
The sun in winter:
During winter in the southern hemisphere the sun is not completely overhead at mid-day; instead it is positioned more towards the northern horizon.
When the sun’s rays travel at more of an angle (during winter and in the early mornings and late afternoons) then more of the sun’s rays are reflected and bounced back into space; hence making it cooler.
The angle of the sun’s rays during this time also results in shadows that are longer and usually extend in a southwards direction . This phenomenon can be as seen in the image below:
This is also why in the morning the shadows will stretch south-westerly (the sun is coming from a north-eastern direction) and in the afternoon south-easterly (the sun is coming from a north-westerly direction).
This is why it is a good idea to plant short sun-loving plants on the north-facing side of flowerbeds and taller plants on southern side so that shorter plants in front of them can receive light.
This is also why in the southern hemisphere you’ll notice that the northern side of houses and gardens is usually the warmest and sunniest and the southern side is the coolest and has the most shade.
Shade-loving plants that can tolerate cooler temperatures are better suited on the southern side.
In the northern hemisphere the opposite is true : The sun is usually positioned more towards the southern hemisphere in winter. Hence shadows extend northwards.
► How is shade made?
Shadows are created when rays of sunlight are blocked by obstacles such as trees, large plants, buildings, walls, big rocks, and other objects.
It’s also important to remember that as the sun moves so do the shadows . This means the shadow patterns change throughout the day.
► Mapping out the shade patterns:
Through observation and memorisation we can develop a mental map of which areas of our space have full-sun, partial-shade, and full-shade at different times of day .
We can also take photographs or draw some sketches to assist our memories. A photography drone can be very useful (but not necessary).
► Permanent shade:
Permanent shade is made by structures such as buildings, walls, perennial plants, and evergreen trees that retain their leaves year-round.
► Temporary shade:
Temporary shade is made by seasonal/annual plants and deciduous trees. ‘Deciduous’ is the classification given to trees which grow their leaves in spring and summer and then lose them in autumn and winter (such as Erythrina caffra ).
► Dynamic shade:
As plants and trees grow and change over time so do the shadows that they create.
Therefore, we need to imagine how their shape will change over time and estimate their potential size in the future.
This is why using visualisation and imagination when we arrange and space out our plants can help ensure that they receive maximum sunlight (both now and in the future).
► Managing shade with pruning:
We can also manage the shade created by plants by pruning them in a tactical way as they grow.
We can prune trees and shrubs to make their shape shorter, less wide, or thin out the branches and leaves so that some sunlight can get to other plants behind or below them.
The best time to do substantial pruning is late winter or early spring (before the plants begin their new growth). However, minor pruning can be done at any time during the year.
We also receive the bonus of having fresh cuttings to plant and grow after pruning!
► Transplanting:
When a plant or baby tree is not in an ideal location we can carefully transplant it to a more favourable location.
The plants we sell are usually quite easy to transplant.
► Planting based on sun requirements:
We can learn which growing conditions different plants prefer through experimentation, observation, and research.
Furthermore, now that we are familiar with the shade patterns within our growing environment; we can install the most suitable plants for the different light conditions in our spaces.
We can put shade loving plants such as Crassula multicava in the shade and sun loving plants such as Aloe arborescens in areas with full sun.
This will achieve the best and most long-term results.
►► Step 2 – Consideration 3 – Soil and topography:
The indigenous plants and succulents that we sell can grow in almost all soil types.
I will go into more detail about soil in Step 3 – Preparing soil and compost , however, the main thing to bear in mind when choosing a position for your succulent plants is to avoid soils or sections of your garden which stay excessively wet, flooded, or muddy for extended periods of time .
The majority of the plants we sell can grow in shallow soils. Our plants only need about 15-30 cm of topsoil and compost to grow (depending on their size).
► Slopes and embankments:
Succulents, groundcovers, and indigenous shrubs grow well on slopes and embankments.
They can be planted together to create a rockery or terraced garden (which help to reduce surface runoff, increase water retention, and hence prevent erosion).
►► Step 2 – Consideration 4 – Wind and airflow:
Plants always enjoy some wind, airflow, and fresh air.
It helps to stimulate them into growing in a structurally strong manner . Without wind plants have no need to reinforce themselves and will grow very weakly.
Air movement also helps to dry out soil so that it does not remain wet and stagnant and hence reduces the chances of pests and disease.
► Wind-tolerant plants:
The plants we sell can tolerate strong and dry winds that dry out the soil.
This is because succulents and indigenous plants have thick leaves and stems that don’t get damaged in the wind and can also store lots of water.
In fact, strong winds and dry conditions can actually benefit succulents and indigenous plants because if the conditions are too lush then other more tender plants or exotics can grow excessively and potentially smother or out-compete them.
► Creating a windbreak:
If there is a prevailing wind that often blows from a particular direction in your area then you can use plants and trees to grow a windbreak.
Windbreaks create micro-climates that are more protected from the wind so that we can grow less hardy plants that enjoy extra shelter.
Just remember to create your windbreak in such away that it doesn’t shade out your entire garden .
►► Step 2 – Consideration 5 – Temperatures:
► Low temperatures:
Succulents can tolerate temperatures as low as 0 degrees Celsius. However, they prefer it if temperatures don’t drop below 4 degrees Celsius.
► High temperatures:
Succulents can survive temperatures over 40 degrees Celsius.
► Ideal temperature:
Our plants are sun-loving and therefore their ideal temperature range would be from 15 – 30 degrees Celsius.
►► Step 2 – Consideration 6 – Shape and size:
One needs to visualise the size and shape of the plants as they grow and once they have reached their full potential.
Plants occupy different vertical and horizontal spaces and this needs to be accounted for when arranging and placing plants.
For example: A groundcover plant that grows flat along the soil can be planted next to a shrub/bush (because it will grow underneath it and spread out along the ground), however, one shouldn’t plant 2 shrubs/bushes of the same height and size 5 cm away from each other (because they will occupy the same vertical and horizontal space and hence compete with each other for sunlight).
A harmonious arrangement of plants will create a forest-like environment where there are plants growing at different vertical layers:
• Canopy
• Sub-canopy
• Large bushes
• Medium shrubs
• Small plants
• Groundcovers
Succulents grow in a compact fashion and can be pruned easily , so don’t be scared to plant your plants quite close together, just make sure they have enough space and sunlight.
If we successfully arrange our plants they will be able to live together harmoniously while sharing the sunlight.
►► Step 2 – Consideration 7 – Aesthetic and ambiance:
Plants (and especially succulents) exhibit a remarkable diversity of colours, textures, and shapes .
Each species or variety of plant has unique leaves, stems, roots, and flowers.
We can combine plants with complimentary characteristics to create a collective aesthetic and ambiance.
There are no rules with this…
Be creative and adventurous! Create the look and feel that you desire.
Think of yourself as an artist working with living sculptures ☺
Step 3 – Preparing soil and compost
Soil is like the foundation of a house; without it there is no chance of anything lasting a sustained period of time.
Solet’s look into this magical substance further.
► What is soil made up of?
Topsoil is the upper/outermost layer of soil (usually the top 15-30 centimetres).
Soil is made up of five different ingredients:
1. Minerals from weathered rock:
A typical soil is comprised of over 90 minerals which are tiny pieces of broken-down rock (e.g. quartz, mica, feldspar, or dolomite). This process takes hundreds, thousands, and millions of years. Soil minerals are divided into three particle size classes (from smallest to largest) — clay, silt, and sand. Any given soil is usually a combination of these 3 particle sizes.
2. Soil organic matter:
This is decomposing plant leaves, roots, and stems; animal carcasses; and microbial residues. The percentage of soil organic matter in a soil is an excellent indicator of the soil quality.
3. Living organisms:
Bacteria, actinomycetes, protozoa, nematodes, and fungi are some of the soil microorganisms that exist in soil (as long as there is a carbon source for energy). A teaspoon of rich garden soil can contain up to one billion bacteria, several metres of fungal filaments, several thousand protozoa, and many nematodes.
4. Gases:
Pores or spaces in the soil which are not filled with water or roots are filled with air: approximately 79% nitrogen, 20% oxygen, more than 0.2% carbon dioxide (CO2), and the remainder is methane (CH4), nitrous oxide (N2O), and ammonia (NH3). The air in soil is in constant exchange with the atmosphere above.
5. Water:
Approximately 40-60% of total soil volume remains open for gas and water (this is called pore space). In a dry soil, water will occupy a very small proportion of this space. In a wet soil, water occupies most of this space. This illustrates how soil is a water reservoir for plants.
► How do plants interact with and use soil?
Plants extract and absorb water, minerals, and nutrients from the earth (topsoil and compost) using their roots in order to grow.
The three main nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K).
Other important nutrients are calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and sulfur (S).
Plants also need small quantities of iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), boron (B), and molybdenum (Mo). These are referred to as trace elements because only traces are needed by the plant.
This sounds complicated but the good thing to note is that almost all soils when combined with a good compost will provide all these nutrients for your plants (so there is no need to artificially fertilise).
Plants combine these nutrients in different combinations within their cells to produce everything that they need to survive, grow, and thrive.
Therefore it’s important to make sure that you have your soil and compost well-prepared before your order arrives.
A better quality soil will result in healthier plants!
► What makes a good quality soil?
A good soil has a combination of drainage, aeration, and water retention .
This means water enters the soil easily, it doesn’t dry out too quickly, and there is enough air pockets for the roots to breathe.
Adding compost to any topsoil will improve these qualities while also introducing important nutrients and minerals.
Furthermore, organic matter also facilitates the existence of beneficial microbes such as bacteria and fungi which improve the soil structure and create distribution networks for nutrients and minerals.
A good topsoil mixed with a rich compost will create a healthy and productive root zone so that your plants can thrive.
► What is a good growing medium?
The simplest summary of making a good growing medium is to mix topsoil and compost in a 1:1 ratio (that means an equal amount of topsoil and compost).
However, feel free to experiment with different ratios and mixtures if you like!
A good growing medium includes compost (decomposing organic matter) because it improves drainage, aeration, and water retention, while also providing nutrition for the plants and beneficial microorganisms.
► Where to source your soil and compost:
Making your own compost is fun, free, easy, and rewarding . So if you have a small space in your garden to do this, I would say this is first prize!
Furthermore, this way your food scraps won’t end up in landfill and create greenhouse gases (methane) due to anaerobic decomposition. If you live in a flat/apartment or have a very small garden then perhaps have a look at the Japanese bokashi technology!
In terms of topsoil, one can always harvest some from the garden if you intend to grow your babies in pots.
If you don’t have compost or topsoil at home:
Of course, not everyone can source their growing medium at home; so if you don’t have immediate access to topsoil or compost then you can always make a plan:
You could acquire some from a friend or family member that keeps plants, or alternatively, you can purchase some from your local plant nursery or a trusted topsoil and compost supplier.
Just make sure that if you buy any growing medium, I would recommend avoiding soilless mixtures (such as plain bark or coco coir). Also, I personally don’t advocate the use of perlite, vermiculite, or other manufactured soil additives.
► How to prepare and use your growing medium:
If you are growing outdoors you can simply spread compost on top of the soil where you intend to grow some plants and then proceed to dig it in gently with a fork or spade.
This will prepare the flowerbed by enriching and aerating the soil (just remember not to walk on top of the soil too much as that will compact it).
After mixing in the compost one can also spread a layer of mulch on top of the soil (such as dry grass or leaves). This will gradually feed the soil; keep it moist and cool; while also suppressing and reducing weeds.
► Problematic types of topsoil:
There are various problematic soils that can result in poor plant growth (and in the worst case disease and even death).
Let’s look at these a little closer:
► Compacted soils:
Compacted soils are hard and have low porosity which results in low soil gas levels and makes it difficult for water to penetrate and for the roots and microbes to thrive.
Soil compaction can be caused by heavy machinery during building, or from regular foot or car traffic.
Solution for compacted soils:
The best way to fix compacted soils is by loosening and aerating the soil with a fork, pick, spade, or digging bar while simultaneously mixing in a generous amount of compost and some water.
► Hydrophobic soils:
Hydrophobic soils don’t absorb water easily . One can usually observe dry soil particles which repel water causing it to run off the surface of the soil or pool on top of it (leaving the soil underneath dry ).
Solution for hydrophobic soils:
Mix in plenty of rich compost ; water the soil; plant some hardy plants; and then spread a layer of mulch (dry grass or leaves are usually best).
The organic matter combined with the plant roots will help to improve soil structure and encourage microbial activity which will bring the soil back to life through root microbiome symbiosis.
► Heavy-clay soils:
Heavy-clay soils can become water-logged when wet and when they are dry they can also become very hard and dry. They also compact easily.
Solution for heavy-clay soils:
Adding compost will introduce coarser materials to balance the fine particle size of clay and hence improve aeration and water regulation.
If the soil is compacted you can use a fork or spade to loosen the soil, just don’t do this when the soil is wet.
Get some hardy plants in the soil as their roots will also help to improve soil structure.
►► Step 3b – Preparing pots and planters:
► Pot types and materials:
Pots can be made of many different materials:
► Ceramic (such a red terracotta pots)Glass (the self-watering planters in our shop)Metal (reused metal cans from food)Wood (made from offcuts or pallet wood)Plastic (different shapes and sizes, e.g. trays and flats)Other materials (Pressed coco-coir for example)
I’d just like to remind you that it is not always necessary to buy new pots .
We can make our own pots by upcycling our household waste, such as plastic bottles, tin cans, and other containers to start our cuttings.
Different materials, shapes, and sizes can work!
There are many awesome videos on YouTube showing creative ideas. Just search something similar to ‘DIY plant pots’ or ‘recycled containers for plants’.
You can save a lot of money this way and you will also avoid accumulating more plastic things that might end up being discarded in the environment one day.
Nevertheless, if you do want to buy some pots, even if they are plastic, make sure that they are designed to resist ultraviolet (UV) rays for a long time. Rather go for pots made out of strong materials than cheap flimsy ones (they simply won’t last).
► Pot / planter sizes:
Here’s my guidelines for pot sizes for starting cuttings:
► Small : 11-12 cm in both height and diameter (distance across the pot)Medium : 13-14 cm in both height and diameterLarge : 15-18 cm in both height and diameterExtra large : 19 cm + in both height and diameter
If your planters are slightly different shapes or proportions that is fine, just use these values as a guideline.
Just remember that succulents and indigenous plants have root systems which like to grow horizontally ; so pots and planters that are as wide as they are deep are usually a good idea.
How to choose the right sized pot for your cuttings:
I came up with a formula to do this!
Do this calculation to find the minimum height and diameter (width) of pot needed:
► Start with the total length of the cutting in centimetres (cm)
And that will give you the height and width of the pot that you will need!
So let’s look at an example:
If I have a Curio talinoides cutting that is 30 cm long.
Therefore, the calculation for minimum height and width of pot needed will be as follows:
► Cutting length = 30 cm
Therefore I need a large sized pot of 18cm height and diameter.
► The right size for the job:
Using the right sized pot for growing your cuttings will give you the best results and save you money.
If you use pots that are too small then your plants won’t have space to grow their roots and will also not have access to sufficient nutrients and water.
If your pots are too big for your plants then you’ll waste soil/potting mix and you’ll also spend more time using precious water to saturate the excessive amounts of soil.
Furthermore, your plant won’t be big enough to occupy the space and drink up all the water meaning there is a chance one can run into problems with pests, rot, and mould.
If you have big pots you could consider planting several cuttings spaced out in the pot, which can also make a nice arrangement.
► How to fill your pots and planters:
When you plant a cutting in the pot, fill it with a 1:1 ratio mix of topsoil and compost (equal amounts), but leave 3 cm at the top unfilled .
This is important because when you water the pots, there needs to be space for the water to sit while it soaks into the soil. That is why there is a 3 cm in the formula.
If you overfill your pots you will struggle to water your plants because the water will simply overflow (and not permeate the soil properly).
► How deep to plant cuttings into the soil?
As a general rule, I suggest sticking at least 1 third of the length of the cutting into the soil . This will help to balance the cutting so that it does not fall over.
To get this value just divided the total length by 3. So for the Curio talinoides example, which is 30cm, one should stick at least 10 cm of the cutting into the soil.
This would mean, with the 18cm pot, there will be a 3cm space at the top, 10 cm of soil that the cutting is stuck into. The plant will use these 10 cm (and the 5cm remaining below) as space for root growth growth . Roots will shoot out the bottom and side of the stem.
One does not necessarily have to measure each cutting with a ruler; you can also trust your ability to estimate.
For flat growing plants that do not need to stand upright, such as groundcover and hanging plants, one can use shallower pots and planters. These plants usually have shallower roots and so one could maybe only need to stick 3-5 cm under the soil.
► Re-potting your plants in the future:
Once your plants have outgrown their pots, or they have depleted the nutrients and compost in the soil ; then one needs to repot them with a fresh growing medium.
► Signs its time to re-pot your plants:
The 5 main signs that it is time to repot a plant with new soil and usually a bigger pot are:
► 1. Roots are growing out the drainage holes at the bottom of the container.
► How often does one need to re-pot plants?
Plants usually need to be re-potted once a year, or every 18 months (depending on how actively they are growing).
Some plants are slow growers and aren’t heavy feeders. They can stay in the same pot and soil for years.
Nevertheless, one can still sprinkle some fresh compost around them at the start of spring to replenish the soil.
► What time of year is best to re-pot plants?
Late winter or early spring is usually the best time to re-pot plants. This means the plants will be ready for the start of the growth season.
Step 4 – When and how to plant
When it comes to planting out your order, the saying ‘the sooner the better’ does apply. However, don’t stress… you have time.
► The cuttings are ready to plant on arrival:
For maximum freshness I harvest the cuttings the evening before or the morning of the day that I send them to you.
The transportation period is beneficial because it provides the cuttings with an opportunity to form a callus while in a sheltered environment.
A callus is a soft tissue that forms over a wounded plant surface (such as the cut I make while taking the cuttings).
A callus provides a barrier which protects against pests, disease, and rot (much like a scab in humans).
During this process some of the plant’s cells also re-organize into growing points from which roots can emerge in the future.
This means that your plants and cuttings are ready to plant as soon as they arrive!
► How many days can one take to plant the cuttings?
If you can get the plants in the soil on the day they arrive or the day after , that would obviously be ideal.
Water your newly planted cuttings and plants immediately after planting and keep them moist by watering them regularly while they are getting established.
► You should have some time:
The plants I sell have evolved to possess thick skins which are well-adapted to retaining water levels and reducing transpiration.
These water storing capabilities mean that even unrooted cuttings can go for some time while severed from their parent plant.
Most species can go several days with minimal water loss (in fact, a some species can survive for weeks and even months).
You will see when the cuttings are drying out or wrinkling, however, by this stage the cuttings will have already lost some of their vigour and vitality; so for the best results, do not delay planting.
► How to store the cuttings before planting:
Until you can plant your cuttings, keep them spread out in a dry and well-aerated place which remains cool (around 20 degrees Celsius is most likely ideal).
Perhaps a good place would be spread out on a table or on the floor near an east or west facing window. Just remember to keep the cuttings inaccessible to young children and pets.
Do not simply leave the cuttings in the box or in a dark place.
Even though the cuttings are unplanted they can still photosynthesise; and hence they need to receive some sunlight light.
However, this doesn’t mean one should leave unplanted cuttings in harsh sunlight or on a surface that accumulates excessive heat. This will dry them out.
Bright but indirect light is what the cuttings want.
Keeping cuttings hydrated
If one is unable to plant the cuttings right away, one may wish to keep the cuttings hydrated by leaving them standing upright in water using a bucket, vase, or any other suitable container.
With this technique, only the bottom of the stem or just the roots should be submerged in water (not the entire cutting).
It is important to remember to keep the water clean and remember that while these plants are drought-tolerant they can be susceptible to rot (so to be safe one shouldn’t keep them in the water for longer than a week or two).
Change water regularly.
Step 5 – Watering your babies
When the plants are still cuttings they are at their most vulnerable as they don’t have extensive roots to search for water.
At this stage the soil needs to be kept moist in order for them to stay hydrated.
Once your plants are more established it is better to water thoroughly but less frequently, rather than to water very shallowly but often.
In nature, soil naturally goes through dry periods between rains , and one needs to mimic this when growing plants (both indoors and outdoors).
► Always use the soak and dry method:
If your plants are dry and you think they could do with some water, then give them a generous helping of water.
Make sure the water gets deep down to the roots below.
Then allow the plant to dry out for a week or two.
These plants are adapted to store water in their leaves, stems, and roots.
To avoid overwatering, one can use a finger to gently dig about 5 centimetres into the soil to check the moisture deeper down.
Allowing the soil to dry our periodically is actually better than constantly overwatering which waterlogs and de-oxygenates the soil (preventing the roots from breathing and potentially causing disease).
► Watering in summer vs winter:
Be more generous with water during the spring and summer .
It is hotter and hence soil dries out faster, plus the plants are also actively growing during this period.
Don’t overwater in winter and autumn, especially when you are experiencing colder weather.
During colder periods succulents and indigenous plants can enter a semi-dormant state where they don’t grow or do so very slowly.
In such a state they will not use up a lot of water and are at higher risk of root rot.
Therefore, in this dormant state the succulents irronically sometimes prefer to be slightly drier .
Once again, allow the top 5cm of the soil to dry out and then water thoroughly soon thereafter.
► Watering plants indoors:
When growing indoors it is usually cooler and not as sunny and hence soil often takes longer to dry out (especially deeper in the soil).
The moisture after watering is also contained in the pot, which may also make evaporation slower.
Therefore, the top of the soil may dry out, but it is in fact still moist deeper below the surface of the soil.
The owner or caretaker of the plants might not realise this and so may water the plants again.
If this is repeated regularly the soil will spend a lot of time holding too much moisture which will result in higher chances of rot and mould occurring.
Having pots with good drainage holes at the bottom of the pot also facilitate water exiting the pots (both directly after watering, and also over time via evaporation).
Step 6 – Observing your plants and monitoring progress
Check up on your plants regularly (I’d recommend at least 3 times per week while they are getting started).
Cuttings usually take between 1-6 weeks for roots to form (sometimes 8 weeks or longer depending on the species and conditions).
If you are not seeing any new growth, be patient. So long as the cutting is not dying and drying out it is most likely working to grow its new roots. Just leave them to do their thing.
Plants will generally grow faster in warmer conditions and with the presence of moisture.
If you observe new leaf growth this usually a sign that there is some root development occurring under the surface and the plants/cuttings are doing well. At this point one can start to water less frequently; allowing the top 1-3 cm of the soil to dry out before watering again.
The ultimate way to know you have achieved success is once you start seeing significant new growth over a sustained period of time and the plant looks happy and healthy.
Step 7 – Research and learning
There are many ways the learn new things about plants:
• Talking to friends and family
• Browsing blogs and websites
• Botanical gardens
• Reading books and magazines
• Visiting nurseries & plant shops
• Watching YouTube and documentaries
• Exloring social-media platforms
• Spending time in nature and observing
I recommend that you do as much research as is necessary until you feel confident you can successfully grow the plants you have invested in.
Just focus on the basics for now.
It’s not necessary to amass vast amounts of knowledge before you get started.
The truth is that gardeners are always learning new things through experience and experimentation.
So stay curious, observant, and look for answers to the questions that pop up in your mind.
The information contained herewithin should be sufficient to ensure your initial success .
However, if you have questions that are not solved in this text then I recommend first consulting with the internet (YouTube and online articles) or other sources of information (books and magazines).
If you have friends or family members that also enjoy working with plants then chat to them and ask some questions. People that like plants often enjoy chatting about them.
Finally, if you still do not find the answers that you are looking for; then please feel free to contact me .
► Do some species-specific research:
It’s always a good idea to find out the specific care needs of each species you will be working with.
It’s not necessary to go too in depth, but a brief investigation will be beneficial. Over time you will get to know the different plant species better as you observe their habits and how they respond to the growing conditions that you provide for them and the micro-climate of your area.
All the plants that we sell are hardy, drought-tolerant, and can thrive in a range of growing conditions, however it is still worth it to think about their growth habits, size, soil preferences, light and water requirements etc.
For example, some plants don’t like growing in full-shade (some may even die). Whereas others do not like full-sun. Most of the plants we sell enjoy good amounts of sun; not all of them can tolerate deep shade.
Also take some time to observe your immediate environment and take into consideration the climate and growing conditions of your specific area. Plants respond differently to varying climactic zones and conditions, so your approach should take this into consideration.
Gathering this information will help you to plant them in an appropriate location where the plant will experience the best possible growing conditions. You will also be able to make well-informed decisions when providing certain plants with specifically tailored care.
For example, if you live in a very windy area, and one of the plants that you bought does not take well to strong winds, then you can easily mitigate this by planting the plant in an area that is sheltered from wind.
Extra info – Where I grow my plants
Where do I grow the plants and why they are reliable:
I have tested all of the plants available in my shop in my own garden.
We live in Makhanda (formerly Grahamstown), which is situated in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa.
We experience cold, dry, and windy winters as well as hot summers with irratic and unpredictable rainfall.
Our area is a low rainfall area and is located at the meeting point of 4 different climactic zones which makes it very difficult to anticipate the weather conditions and precipitation patterns (often the weather apps even get it wrong).
These challenges have been compounded by the fact that we’ve been experiencing a major drought for many years.
Despite all these challenges our garden is still pulling through fantastically! It is rather remarkable actually… But then again, nature never ceases to amaze.
Besides a few waterings when the cuttings are forming their roots and getting started, I do absolutely no irrigation (watering), and the plants survive and grow just fine.
But this hasn’t just happened by chance…
Some of the plants that I attempted to grow in the early years of my garden struggled and many didn’t survive. Many of them were exotic plants that weren’t indigenous to South Africa.
In the past I would expend a lot of energy trying to help the struggling plants in an attempt to stop them from dying.
This was part of the learning process, but eventually I realised that I was fighting a losing battle…
So I made the decision to stop irrigating my garden and giving them special attention. I would continue growing only the plants that would survive this change of approach.
There were some casualties, but now I can confidently assure you that the plants that remained alive have been tested.
The positive outcome is that my customers don’t have to continually worry about whether they need to water their plants or give them extra care.
They will grow vigourously and blossom stunningly in your special green space; without a lot of effort!
I can’t promise you that every single one of your plants is going to survive. Nothing in life is perfect… and I’ve even come accross some people having a self-proclaimed special talent for killing plants. Hahaha!
I personally believe everyone can grow plants, and success is made easier by working with our indigenous plants.
As we spend more time experimentating in the garden, practising techniques, learning information, and remembering facts; our green spaces will flourish.
